44 lines
2.3 KiB
Markdown
44 lines
2.3 KiB
Markdown
# OBUS PCB
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In order to make it easier for our members to get started creating their own OBUS module,
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we designed and ordered PCBs they can use instead of having to wire up the basics
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on a breadboard. The PCB accomodates an Arduino Nano V3 (and clones), an MCP2515 CAN-bus module
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and an RGB LED. The LED and CAN bus module are connected to pins on the
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Arduino Nano. All pins on the Arduino Nano are connected to the ajacent pin socket so
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they can easily be accessed when breadboarding.
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The pins already used by the OBUS framework are marked with exclamation marks. This does
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not mean they can't be used for other purposes anymore, just that you need to pay
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attention when using them: for example the SPI pins can be used for other devices, but
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the LED pins can't. While picking the pins, we made sure to use the least useful pins
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for the OBUS framework: we tried to pick as few PWM pins as possible, didn't pick any I2C
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pins, ...
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## Connecting the parts on the socket.
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We tried our best to make the board as self-explanatory as possible. When pushing the
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Arduino into its socket, make sure it's in the correct orientation. When connecting the
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CAN bus module, you'll need to flip it on its back, then look at the silk screen on both
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the OBUS PCB and the CAN module so that the INT pin is connected in the INT socket hole.
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By default, the INT pin on the CAN module is not connected to the Arduino in order to
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save pins. If you want to connect the INT pin to pin D2 on the Arduino, you can bridge
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the jumper on the top right of the board with some solder.
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### Component list per board
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- 2 1x15 2.54mm pin sockets, we recommend 4 sockets so you can socket the Arduino as well
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- 1 1x07 2.54mm pin socket
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- 1 1x02 2.54mm pin socket
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- 1 common cathode 5mm RGB LED, pin order RCGB
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- 2 330 ohm through hole resistors
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## TODO for next board iteration
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There is still some space left over at the top and sides of the board, so use it:
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- Add extra connection holes for every Arduino pin where wires can be soldered semi permanently on the sides of the board
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- Add copper pads/holes to make a "perfboard" on the bottom of the board (with 2.54mm spacing, like a breadboard)
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- Add holes to solder wires in for the status RGB LED in case we don't want this on the main PCB
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- Add silkscreen with pin names on back of PCB
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