50 lines
2.6 KiB
Markdown
50 lines
2.6 KiB
Markdown
# OBUS PCB
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
In order to make it easier for our members to get started creating their own OBUS module,
|
|
we designed and ordered PCBs they can use instead of having to wire up the basics
|
|
on a breadboard. The PCB accomodates an Arduino Nano V3 (and clones), an MCP2515 CAN-bus module
|
|
and an RGB LED. The LED and CAN bus module are connected to pins on the
|
|
Arduino Nano. All pins on the Arduino Nano are connected to the ajacent pin socket so
|
|
they can easily be accessed when breadboarding.
|
|
The pins already used by the OBUS framework are marked with exclamation marks. This does
|
|
not mean they can't be used for other purposes anymore, just that you need to pay
|
|
attention when using them: for example the SPI pins can be used for other devices, but
|
|
the LED pins can't. While picking the pins, we made sure to use the least useful pins
|
|
for the OBUS framework: we tried to pick as few PWM pins as possible, didn't pick any I2C
|
|
pins, ...
|
|
|
|
## Connecting the parts on the socket.
|
|
|
|
We tried our best to make the board as self-explanatory as possible. When pushing the
|
|
Arduino into its socket, make sure it's in the correct orientation. When connecting the
|
|
CAN bus module, you'll need to flip it on its back, then look at the silk screen on both
|
|
the OBUS PCB and the CAN module so that the INT pin is connected in the INT socket hole.
|
|
|
|
By default, the INT pin on the CAN module is not connected to the Arduino in order to
|
|
save pins. If you want to connect the INT pin to pin D2 on the Arduino, you can bridge
|
|
the jumper on the top right of the board with some solder.
|
|
|
|
## Getting this board manufactured
|
|
|
|
I order to get this board manufactured cheaper, we panelized it (by putting two OBUS PCBs per ordered "board"). If you want to manufacture this board, there's a file `panel/can_arduino_mini_pcb_panel/fabricate/handin.zip` containing all the
|
|
Gerber files needed for production. If you modify the original PCB, you can generate
|
|
the panel with `panel/build.sh`, then use KiCAD to plot the Gerber files.
|
|
|
|
### Component list per board
|
|
|
|
- 2 1x15 2.54mm pin sockets, we recommend 4 sockets so you can socket the Arduino as well
|
|
- 1 1x07 2.54mm pin socket
|
|
- 1 1x02 2.54mm pin socket
|
|
- 1 common cathode 5mm RGB LED, pin order RCGB
|
|
- 2 330 ohm through hole resistors
|
|
|
|
## TODO for next board iteration
|
|
|
|
There is still some space left over at the top and sides of the board, so use it:
|
|
|
|
- Add extra connection holes for every Arduino pin where wires can be soldered semi permanently on the sides of the board
|
|
- Add copper pads/holes to make a "perfboard" on the bottom of the board (with 2.54mm spacing, like a breadboard)
|
|
|
|
|